Administration
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Pre-requisites: The DPE Cross Country Ski course is a beginning level course.
Cadets with a great deal of experience on cross country skis or members
of the Cadet Nordic Ski Club will not be allowed to take the course. During
the first class, cadets who demonstrate a high degree of proficiency on
skis because of prior ski experience may be asked to drop the course..
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Uniform: The uniform for the class is gym alpha with sweat pants, sweat
top, knit cap, and gloves. Cadets can wear the issue ski boots to and from
class. Due to the varying weather conditions throughout the course, cadets
should wear sufficient layers under their outer garments to keep warm.
Under garment layers may be removed if over-heating occurs. On bright,
sunny days, cadets will be allowed to wear sunglasses.
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Class Location: The class will meet on the bus parked in designated area
(TBD) and will proceed to the ski slope. If there is sufficient snow on
the golf course, most class periods will be held there. If there is insufficient
snow at the golf course, class will be held on the ski slope. In the event
there is not enough snow at either of those two locations, an announcement
will be made for the class to meet at the Gym.
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Course Structure and Grading: The 18 hour, 9 lesson course taught during Round 3 is a 1000 point graded course. The skills tests
are worth a total of 800 points and the written
exam is worth 200 points. Adjustments to scheduling, structure and
grading may be made because of changing snow conditions. Cadets will return
issued equipment on lesson 9.
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Additional Instruction Policy: Usually AI is not an issue because instructors
will try to work with cadets requiring or requesting assistance whenever
possible. Cadets wishing to receive AI should contact their primary instructor
and schedule a time when they can meet.
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Inclement Weather Plans: On days when class will not go to the ski slope,
cadets will report to Arvin Gym at the normally scheduled time to participate
in another ski related activity or lecture/discussion. Cadets need to listen
to announcements over the cadet PA system to determine what they will be
doing on the days that it looks like the class might not ski.
Safety Considerations:
Safety is always a consideration during cross country ski class.
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Cadets will be instructed to ski at their own abilities. If cadets find
themselves going too fast, they should attempt to slow down using a braking
wedge, turn uphill, hockey stop and/or pole dragging technique. If unable
to do that, they should execute a controlled fall. These stopping and safety
skills will be taught when the terrain necessitates it.
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Cadets will be instructed to ski only on designated areas and will not
attempt to use the chair lift.
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Instructors will attempt to use terrain that is suitable to the abilities
of the class.
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Cadets will be instructed to always look uphill before crossing the fall
line to avoid collision with other skiers.
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Cadets will wear the proper clothing to avoid exposure.
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Cadets will participate in a proper warm up and cool down.
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Cadets will be instructed on proper equipment procedures and equipment
maintenance.
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Cadets that suffer an injury will report to the instructor(s) immediately.
Getting Started
Proper Ways To Carry Skis
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Place running edges of skis together and hold upright.
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Place running edges together and carry over one shoulder. Carry skis in
one hand and poles in the other. Be careful when turning.
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Carry skis and poles using the pole straps to hold the skis together.
Putting Equipment On
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Boots: Should be snug but not too tight.
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Skis: Be sure that you have the correct binding/boot set up. Place
the front of the boot into the binding, push down until the boot locks
into the binding.
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Poles: To grip the pole properly, come up through the bottom of the strap
and grasp handle on top- the strap should go between the thumb and fore-finger.
The Basics
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Warm-up Exercises: The following warm up exercises may be done with the
skis on: neck rolls, arm circles, sideways twist, bend over toe touch,
groin stretch, squats, jog in place, slide skis back and forth, telemark
stretch.
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Basic Body Position: The desired body position is one that enables the
skier to balance on a point just in front of the heel or just behind the
instep. Skiers should assume a slightly flexed, upright stance.
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Beginner Basic Skills: Walking on skis, side stepping, balancing on one
ski, wedge positions, gliding, hopping, etc.
Basic Turns (Stationary)
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Turning around the tips: Keep tips on the snow, high knee lift (may be
more difficult in new or loose snow) and open tails of skis. Focus on keeping
tips together and try turning in both directions. This turn is the foundation
of the wedge position which will be discussed in more detail in the downhill
portion of the class.
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Turning around the tails: Keep tails together and on the snow, keep weight
on the heels, flex knees, then pick up one ski, form a V and "match" or
bring the skis together.
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Kick turn: Good for narrow trails, deep snow or on steep slopes. Also used
to change direction at the end of a traverse on steep slopes. Kick the
uphill ski out and around. Use the poles for balance. Then repeat with
the other ski.
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Bullfighters turn: Generally used on steep terrain to get skis and body
facing straight down the fall line. Plant poles down fall line and step
around tails or tips, using poles for support until body and skis face
downward.
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Falling and Getting Up: Falling is a natural occurrence in beginning skiing.
Students will learn to execute a controlled fall as a way of stopping.
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The controlled fall: Sit back on buttocks and lower body to the snow.
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Getting up: Bring skis together and place them perpendicular to the fall
line. Poles can be either on or off. Lean forward to "all fours" position.
Slide downhill ski forward. Use poles and push up to a stand. In deep snow,
make an X in the snow with the poles on the uphill side of skis just in
front of the body. The X will act as a platform to push up from. Also,
one or both skis may be removed and then remounted.
Trail Skiing
Etiquette
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Overtaking skier steps out and goes around calling out "track left".
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Stopping or falling: Carefully move to one side out of the tracks/trail
without damaging prepared tracks.
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Downhill sections: Downhill skier has the right of way, other skiers should
move out of the way. Always look uphill before crossing the fall line.
Flatland
Track Techniques
Diagonal Stride Introduction: The fundamental Nordic technique for flat
or slightly up-hill terrain, similar to running but having the additional
components of gliding on skis and pole push.
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The kick: An aggressive downward push on one ski which propels the other
ski forward. A good kick results from a forward leaning torso.
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The glide: Upper body remains stationary for a moment and body weight should
be over the gliding ski and centered just behind the ball of the foot.
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The pole push: A forceful down-compression of the arms, shoulders, and
back. Forward elbow is slightly bent, plant pole to the side with pole
shaft angled forward and slightly into the body. Arms are relaxed and comfortably
flexed at the elbow and wrist when planting. Follow through with full arm
extension.
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Leg/Body Movement: Alternating push-off from one ski onto a gliding ski.
Motion similar to walking, heel should come up off ski at the end of the
push off. Initially start with slow shuffling motion that develops into
a more powerful compression of body weight on the push-off ski and extension.
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Drills: Walking without poles, exaggerated knee bend, exaggerated arm swing,
quickski (running), alternate lifting one ski, then the other out of the
track, lift tips and practice balancing on one foot.
Double Poling: Used to maintain or increase speed on fast tracks or slight
declines. Gives the legs a rest while using the upper torso and arms for
propulsion.
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Practice movement in a stationary position.
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Lean forward, bend trunk and rise up on toes.
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Plant poles far in front of feet.
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Emphasize pushing the hands past the hips.
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Start off on a flat area, then progress to a gradual downhill.
One Step Double Pole: A push-off with one leg followed by a double pole.
Used when terrain is too flat for the diagonal stride and too slow for
the double pole. It can be a restful break from a series of double poles
or a long section of diagonal striding. The rhythm is similar to that used
when skating; push, double pole, push.
Uphill Techniques
Uphill Diagonal Stride: Can be used on gradual slopes. Slight modification
of regular stride.
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Stride length is shortened and tempo is increased to maintain momentum
with little or no free glide.
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The angle of the slope requires a definite weight transfer to the forward
ski (that foot is pushed slightly ahead of the knee) to apply maximum pressure
on the gripping ski.
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Push-off is quick and explosive to eliminate time spent on a stopped ski.
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The hand moves down as the pole is pulled and pushed off in a shorter,
more vigorous motion.
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Use quicker and shorter movements similar to jogging up a hill.
Herringbone: Technique used to climb straight uphill where the terrain
precludes other uphill techniques. This technique is faster than side step
and more secure on steep terrain than the uphill diagonal stride.
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Edging: The skis are placed at an angle ("V" position) with the inside
edges turned in. Spread the skis further apart on steep terrain to prevent
sliding back.
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Poling: The poles move as in diagonal. Plant the pole to the side and behind
the feet. Apply pressure on the pole to prevent slipping and move forward
for the next step.
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Body Position: Similar to diagonal stride with a little more forward lean
and knee flex.
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Students Having Problems: Try to avoid steep hills first, emphasize edging
and proper use of the poles. Take larger steps if the tails of the skis
are crossing.
Side Step: Used to negotiate narrow or steep sections of trail or very
deep snow where no other techniques are possible. Can also be used to go
down a steep slope.
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Edging: Keep the skis perpendicular to the fall line with the edges turned
into the hill to prevent the skis from slipping downhill.
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Body Position: Upright, weight over the feet, knees slightly flexed for
balance.
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Arm Movement: Simultaneously or alternating, depending on the snow conditions
and slope steepness. Arms used primarily for balance and support.
Traversing: Cutting diagonally across slope to reduce slope angle so skis
will hold. The preferred method of changing direction at the end of a traverse
is to use a herringbone step turn (turn around tails). To change direction
on an extremely steep slope, use the kick turn. Upper body faces the direction
of travel.
Downhill Ski
Techniques
Straight Run: A downhill run with skis directed down the fall line.
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Body Position: Stand up fairly straight, hands at sides, pole baskets on
the snow and pointing back. The skis should be shoulder width apart. Bend
the knees and move the hands forward in front of the hips. The center of
gravity is over the feet, with the shoulders and back rounded. The faster
the speed, the lower the knee bend and, therefore, the center of gravity.
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Falling backward - caused by leaning back too far, skis might be too close
together.
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Skis cross and wobble from side to side during the run - probably caused
by stiff legs, too tense.
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Start on fairly level terrain and progress in steepness. Students having
difficulty should review the basic body positions, practice moving up and
down for balance.
Gliding Wedge: The skis will form a wedge with the tails open or spread
apart. It is used to control speed and maintain stability on a downhill
run.
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Skis flat on the snow, ankles and knees control the slight edging of both
skis.
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Push tails out and keep tips together by rotating legs from the hips. Practice
on a flat and progress to a gentle hill with long, flat run-outs.
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Use different sized wedges for varying terrain and steepness.
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Drills: Jumping jack to wedge, hourglass, assign numbers to different size
wedges, sinking and rising, leg rotation from hip.
Tuck Position: A compact aerodynamic position for holding or increasing
speed on long downhills. Also used to relax and recover.
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Go into tuck while standing still. Emphasize staying low in a crouch, back
parallel to the ground, elbows in close to the body.
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Start with a straight run, then assume the tuck.
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Use different tuck positions for different terrain.
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During a resting tuck, the hips are held higher and the elbows are placed
on the knees.
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Best when used on a prepared track.
Sideslipping: On short, steep, or icy slopes, there may be no alternative
but to skid the skis sideways down the hill.
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Stand with skis parallel to fall line.
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Relax ankles to release edges.
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To control speed, turn ankles back into the hill for more edge bite.
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Upper body faces down hill.
Stopping Techniques
Wedge Stop/Braking Wedge: Use pressure, edging and width of wedge to
control speed. Open tails to a wide wedge and rotate knees and ankles inward.
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Drills: Jumping jack to wedge, hourglass, lift skis and pivot leg from
hips, set up stop markers.
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Wedge Turn To A Stop: A steered turn, while maintaining a wedge. To execute,
shift weight to the downhill ski and continue to turn uphill to a stop.
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Hip Rotation: Rotate legs from hips to steer both skis into the turn.
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Edging: Keep the inside ski fairly flat, and angle the edge of turning
(downhill) ski more.
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Apply pressure and stand up straight on downhill ski. Make inside (uphill)
ski "lighter".
Pole Drag: A technique using the ski poles to control speed. Useful for
the student who has not yet mastered other downhill techniques. The pole
drag, combined with a wedge, may be the safest way down. Good for steep,
narrow, icy trails where controlling speed is a problem.
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Remove the hands from the straps and hold both poles together. One hand
grips the top of the poles and the other hand grips the poles about three
quarters of the way down the pole shaft.
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Lower the body by flexing the knees to better utilize the poles as a lever.
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Weight is equally distributed between both skis. Use a half or full wedge
combined with a pole drag for added control.
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Hockey Stop: A more advanced stopping technique by turning aggressively
while staying in the fall line.
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Start from a straight run.
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Stand up quickly to release pressure on the skis.
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Turn hips, legs and skis vigorously.
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Keep upper body and head facing down the fall line.
SKATE TECHNIQUE
Skating is the most common form of skiing for competition. The motion
is similar to ice skating. It is an ideal technique for hard, packed snow.
There are several types of skating. The type used most often is V skating
or the V-1 technique.
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Edging: The "pushing" ski is turned on the inside edge forming a platform
from which to push off. The gliding ski is flat on the snow.
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Turn the ankle and knee toward the inside of the turn to edge the ski.
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Repeat with the other ski, forming an alternating push glide pattern as
in diagonal stride.
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Flex the knees to a low crouch, then extend the leg from an edged ski.
The amount of energy exerted in the push-off directly affects the skier's
speed in skating.
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Double pole push at the push-off when skis are brought together.
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Commit entire body weight to one ski at a time and ride the gliding ski
as long as possible.
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Hips are up and forward over the gliding ski.
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Ankle flexion and knee bend makes it easier to glide on one ski.
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Both poles and one ski hit the snow simultaneously (three point landing).
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Initiate a powerful double pole as soon as pole tips touch the snow.
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Follow through while gliding on the strong-side skating ski.
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Always pole in the direction you are facing - towards the tip of the gliding
ski.
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When the ski slides to the side and does not grip the snow, turn the ankles
more to dig the edge in.
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Pay attention to arm movement, are they helping to move the body forward
over the gliding ski or are they simply in the way?
Turning Techniques
Wedge
Turns: Start with small, linked, deviations from the fall line.
Should develop gradually to more refined turns with effective turning,
edging and pressure control skills.
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Feel one ski become heavier late in each turn.
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Avoid upper body rotation to turn. Emphasize legs.
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Practice turning in both directions.
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Experiment with different sized wedges and eventually link several turns
together.
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Hip Rotation: Rotate skis and legs from hips to steer both skis in the
direction of the turn.
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Edging: Keep inside ski flat and "light" and angle edge of turning (downhill)
ski more.
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Drills: Ski in pairs, garlands, apply pressure to big and little toes.
Step Turn: A technique used to change direction by stepping the skis into
a new direction. Similar to the stationary step turn around the tails.
With skis parallel, flex the knees and commit the body into the turn. Pick
up the tip of the inside ski and place it at an angle to the outside ski
of the turn and transfer weight. Bring the outside ski parallel and repeat
the sequence to turn.
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Edging: When performed on the flat, edge the outside ski to the inside
of the turn. Leave the tails on the snow, fairly close together. When performed
on a hill, edge both skis to the inside of the turn.
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Body Position: Assume a low position, keeping knees and ankles flexed throughout
the turn. Transfer the weight completely from ski to ski throughout the
turn, taking short, quick steps.
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Arms: Hold the arms to the side and forward for balance, poles pointing
backwards.
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Add a skate push and double pole.
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Start the step turn as a series of small steps on flat terrain and progress
to a steeper hill.
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Emphasize weighting the heels and apply pressure up with the toes to produce
a pivoting action on the tail.
Parallel Turn: A more advanced turn. Skis remain parallel as the skier
turns and goes across fall line. Involves the skidding and matching of
skis throughout turn. The parallel turn originates from a wedge and open
parallel turn.
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Commit to going down and across fall line.
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Extend body upward to release the pressure of the skis on the snow at the
moment the skis change direction.
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Plant inside pole down the hill in front, rise up, lift the outside pole
and turn around the downhill pole.
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Keep upper body facing downhill and anticipate the next turn in the opposite
direction.
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Turns should be smooth, round and linked (S turns).
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Drills: Garlands, J-turns, skidding and side slipping, skiing on one leg,
etc.
Telemark Turn: The telemark is a functional turn for certain snow conditions
and a stable turn in uneven terrain. It requires a wider ski, with a more
stable boot. Skis also have more defined edges that allow the skier to
carve turns better.
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Flex the knees, slide one ski forward until the tip of the back ski is
halfway between the binding and shovel of the forward ski.
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Position the front knee over the toes of front foot. Bend the back knee
to form a right angle between the upper and lower leg. Raise the back heel
off the ski and support weight on the ball of the back foot.
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When turning, the upper body twists to face downhill throughout the turn.
Hands are forward and to the side.
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Edging: At the start of the turn, from a side-hill traverse, transfer weight
to the inside ski (downhill), and steer the outside ski out and forward
in the direction of the turn. Assume the telemark position. Then transfer
weight to the outside ski and turn the ski on edge. Steer the outside ski
to control the radius of the turn.
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Start on flat terrain and practice the telemark without moving. Separate
feet and bend enough to raise the back heel off the ski.
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Go to a gentle hill and perform a straight run in a telemark position to
a gradual stop. Lead with different feet.
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Begin the telemark turn from a half-wedge.
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Assume a "soft/tall" position for beginners and progress to a "hard/short"
position.
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Try to link several turns together, or set up a slalom course.
Equipment
Four Categories of Skis: Based on intended use of the ski.
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Racing: Used in prepared tracks, seldom in powder. Light weight, durable
and strong. Widths vary from 44 to 48mm. (Width measurements taken at three
areas tip, waist, and tails)
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Skating: Shorter and narrower than "Classical" (diagonal stride) skis;
have well defined side-cut/edges.
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Combi: A skate/classic ski. Good for both skating and diagonal stride.
Similar to a light touring ski.
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Light Touring: Heavier and wider than racing skis. Good for prepared tracks
as well as back country. Widths vary from 48 to 55mm. A good all around
ski.
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Touring Skis: Heavier for off track racing. Appropriate for back country.
May need a heavier boot. Widths vary from 52 to 58mm.
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Mountain or Telemark Ski: Appropriate for downhill use, telemark turning
and deep off trail skiing. Widths vary from 55 to 65mm.
Ski Anatomy
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Length: Stand ski flat on the floor, raise one arm overhead, tip of ski
should reach to the wrist of the extended arm. Beginners should use a shorter
ski (5 to 10cm). (Children's skis should reach the top of the head).
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Width: The wider the ski the more support that is given. A bigger skier
or deeper snow requires a wider skier. Width measurements are taken at
three areas; tip, waist, and tails.
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Camber: Refers to the bend in the ski. It is most noticeable when the skis
are placed running surface to running surface. Consider three factors when
choosing your ski's camber: body weight, ability, and intended use.
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The ski's camber or stiffness should be in proportion to the individual's
body weight. The heavier the skier, the stiffer the camber.
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Generally the stiffer the camber, the more refined the technique. A soft
cambered ski is good for a novice, because the wax constantly touches the
snow.
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Advanced skiers and racers need a stiffer camber to get a better glide,
but must use an aggressive kick to get a grip on the snow.
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Can use a paper test to determine if you have the proper camber. Stand
in your boots on the skis at the balance point. Slide a piece of paper
under the middle section. If paper won't slide, camber is too soft, if
there is a big gap, camber is too stiff. This test obviously only checks
a ski's camber based on an individual's body weight. Does not take into
account the skiing ability.
Ski Poles: Critical support item for a novice and a more proficient skiers
means of propulsion.
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Classical - Ski pole length is determined by having the skier stand flat,
pole handle should reach snug in the armpit with the shoulders level.
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Skating - Ski pole length is determined by having the skier stand flat,
pole handle should reach between nose and chin.
Strap: The strap is used to apply pressure during the poling motion. In
the follow-through, the hand releases its grip on the pole handle and then
the pole becomes an extension of the arm.
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Basket: The basket of the ski pole supports the pole when in the snow.
There are different types of baskets for various snow conditions and uses.
A round basket is used for touring, a larger diameter (8-10 inches) is
for deep snow or back country skiing, 4-6 inch diameter for packed snow.
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Materials: The poles can be made from a wide range of materials from bamboo
to carbon graphite. Bamboo serves the purpose but is heavy and may break.
Aluminum is strong and light weight but may bend unless made from the more
tempered alloys. Some aluminum poles have adjustable lengths, which would
good for a rental program. The more exotic material the pole is made of
the more expensive it will be.
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New exotic materials, i.e. fiberglass, epoxy, graphite and boron allow
manufactures to cut weight but are more expensive. Shafts are becoming
stiffer. Important for a racer to have a stiff pole that won't bend when
force is applied. This gives them greater forward momentum.
Bindings - Automatic bindings allow boots to "click" in run the length
of boot for stability. Usually Rottefella NNN or "Solomon Profil".
Older or recreational bindings are usually "3-pin" bindings - heel plates
are necessary for the 3-pin type binding:
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Heel Plates: Necessary to keep the heels of the boots on the ski. Many
different types such as wedges, stars, V's, and metal ridges.
Waxing
Waxing: A correctly waxed cross country ski both grips and glides across
the snow. This is because the microscopic irregularities in the snow surface
dig into the wax just enough to allow a motionless ski to grip. The secret
of waxing is to correctly judge the snow and then select and apply the
correct wax.
Ski Type and Base: Waxing procedure varies according to the ski type
and base. The most convenient categories are:
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Plastic based wood skis and plastic based recreational fiberglass skis.
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Plastic based competition fiberglass and carbon fiber skis.
All waxing procedures involve two or more of the following steps:
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Cleaning--frequently, and always before the skis are stored.
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Base preparation--for some, but not all bases. Frequency depends on use.
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Base waxing--usually used only by the expert skier.
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Final waxing--always. Method depends on skier experience and preference.
Types of wax: Colors describe varying degrees of hardness.
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Glide wax--applied only to the tip and the tail where gliding occurs.
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Grip wax--applied to the middle 24 to 32 inches of the ski. Usually called
klister-wax or klister.
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Hard wax--used on dry snow.
Types of Skiers and Waxing Procedures:
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Recreational Skier--The backbone of the sport. Is more interested in a
reliable grip than maximum glide. Do not need to be concerned with paraffin
base preparation. Should apply a good grip wax and then a gliding wax.
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Skilled Touring Skiers--Include many citizens racers, ski efficiently and
rapidly on some, but not all tours. They are best served by a broader selection
of waxes, usually about five with the types depending on local snow conditions.
A typical assortment would contain three hard waxes, such as a green, blue
and violet, and two klisters, such as blue and red. These skiers may wish
to paraffin base treat their fiberglass skis, but need not use glider waxes.
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Racers--and other expert skiers who ski with vigorous, rapid kicks, and
seek skiing speed. They are most concerned with glide, as their technique
allows them to attain grip with skis that would be virtually unsuitable
for an average recreational skier. They are best served by a full range
of waxes that permit "fine tuning" of ski performance to match various
snows. Glide waxing and paraffin base preparation are musts, as are skills
in using all various waxing aids, such as torches, waxing horses and cleaners.
Waxless skis: Although they may grip well and are obviously a lot easier
to use and maintain, have relatively poor glide, especially on cold, granular
or wet snows. Special paraffin glider waxes have now been developed in
Norway to improve glide of these skis. Available in handy aerosol cans,
they are applied to ski base tips and tails by pressing the sponge applicator
on top of the can against the ski to release wax, which is then spread
along the base using the applicator.
Cross Country
Ski Touring
Touring Considerations
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Don't overdress: Once you get started you will perspire a great deal. Its
best to be a little cool at the start. Try to avoid sweating and then getting
chilled. If you start to perspire, remove some clothes or unzip if you
have a wind-breaker on. Put on clothes if you start to become chilled.
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Dress in layers: The colder the weather the more layers you should have.
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First Layer--Next to the skin, should be lightweight and able to wick moisture
away from the skin to the next layer. The best material is polypropylene.
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Second Layer--Insulating layer. Polypropylene is also good. Use a heavier
material for this layer. Only need this layer on your torso. A good turtleneck
or a sweatshirt would be good.
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Third Layer--Outside layer. Should stretch and should also be water resistant.
Also should be breathable and provide some wind protection. There are one
piece and two piece suits available. Acrylic nylon or cotton nylon are
good materials.
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Final Layer--Used for protection. Does not need to be worn, but should
be carried with you in the event you need it especially on a long distance
tour. Could be carried around your waist or in a rucksack. A wind breaker
or warm-up suit would be best. Gore Tex is a good material.
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Knickers or knee length socks or full length jogging suit is best for lower
body. Don't want very thick bulky socks. Toes need to be able to move in
the boots. Socks should be a flat, tight weave of wool or wool and nylon
(bulky socks pick up and retaining too much snow and moisture.
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Stay dry at all costs: Bring extra clothing, IE socks, mittens, and a hat
for long tours. As soon as you stop, put the dry extra clothing on.
Touring Packing List
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Wind-breaker
First Aid Kit
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Sun Glasses
Extra socks, mittens and a hat
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Matches and paper for a fire
Conditioning
for Cross Country Skiing
Cross country skiing is a demanding sport involving cardiorespiratory
fitness, flexibility and muscular strength and endurance. During off season
months and when conditions do not allow actual ski training, it is important
to maintain and/or improve your level of fitness. Many sports and activities
are compatable with skiing and should be included in an overall, year long
training program. A variety of sports can be included such as roller skiing,
cycling, downhill skiing, running, hiking, soccer, ice and roller skating,
rowing, and weight training, to name a few.
When developing any fitness/training program, all the principles of
fitness should be considered:
FITT Principle
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Frequency
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Intensity
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Time
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Type
Training Principles
Progression
Balance
Recovery
Specificity
Overload
Regularity
Variety
Reality
Warm ups, Flexibility and Cool down
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Jumping jacks
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Running in place
-
Neck circles
-
Arm circles - forward and backward
-
Straddle or hurdlers stretch for hamstrings
-
Quadricep stretch
-
Calf stretch
-
Lunges and groin stretch
Cardiorespiratory
-
Running
-
stairs
-
intervals
-
hills
-
Running with XCS poles
-
Nordic Track exercise machine
-
Cycling
-
Bench stepping/jumping
-
plyometrics
Muscular strength/endurance
-
push ups
-
pull ups
-
dips
-
bench press
-
lat pulls
-
bent over rows
-
military press
-
lateral dumbell raise
-
sit ups and crunches
-
trunk raisers
-
wall sits
-
leg extensions
-
leg curls
-
squats
-
lunges
-
step ups
-
calf raisers
REFERENCES
Teaching Concepts, American Teaching Method Nordic, Bill Hall, Professional
Ski Instructors of America, Boulder Colorado, 1983.
Cross Country Skiing, A Complete Guide, Casey Sheahan, Sports Illustrated
Winner's Circle Books, New York, New York, 1988.